The Ultimate Guide to Hot Composting (UK) – Fast Compost at Home

Learn how to hot compost food and garden waste in weeks, not months. Simple steps for heaps and hot composters, plus friendly troubleshooting for slow, soggy or smelly compost.

The Ultimate Guide to Hot Composting (UK)

Hot composting is the fast way to turn kitchen and garden waste into rich, crumbly compost—by helping nature do what it already does, just at a warmer temperature.

When it's working well, hot composting typically runs around 40–60°C and can produce usable compost in roughly 30–90 days (depending on your setup, the season, and what you're putting in).

This guide keeps things friendly and practical. No heavy science. Just the stuff that actually helps your compost get hot, stay sweet-smelling, and finish faster.

Want a quick explanation first? Here's my shorter post: What is hot composting?

Quick start (60 seconds)

If you do only five things, do these:

  1. Feed it regularly. Hot composting loves steady input.
  2. Balance greens + browns as you go. Don't obsess over perfect ratios.
  3. Keep oxygen in the mix. Hot composting needs air.
  4. Keep moisture "damp, not dripping". Too wet = slow and smelly.
  5. Make pieces smaller. Chopping speeds everything up.

Download my free Hot Composting E-Guide.

What is hot composting?

Composting is simply microbes and tiny creatures breaking down organic matter. Hot composting happens when you manage the mix so those microbes generate enough heat to run at their best.

  • Hot composting: often 40–60°C
  • Cold composting: often below 20°C

The heat is helpful because it speeds things up and helps tackle things like weed seeds and unwanted pathogens.

Why do people love it?

  • Faster compost: weeks rather than many months.
  • Less smell (when it's aerobic): a well-balanced, airy mix stays fresh.
  • Deals with more food waste: especially in insulated hot composters.

The honest downsides

Hot composting is still composting. It's not "set and forget". You'll get the best results if you:

  • feed it often,
  • keep it airy,
  • and make simple tweaks when it drifts too wet or too dry.

The three ingredients of heat: food, air and water

Hot composting works best when you get these right:

1) Food (greens + browns)

You need a mix of nitrogen-rich materials (greens) and carbon-rich materials (browns).

See Blog post - Balancing your green and brown waste in your compost

2) Air (oxygen)

Hot composting is aerobic. The microbes need oxygen. When the mix compacts and loses air pockets, the composting rate slows and can start to smell.

See Blog post - The Power of Air

3) Water (moisture)

Aim for the feel of a wrung-out sponge:

  • too wet: the air spaces fill with water → slow, smelly, sludgy
  • too dry: microbes can't work properly → slow, dusty, inactive

The easiest speed boost: chop it.

Composting happens on surfaces. Smaller pieces = more surface area = faster breakdown.

See Blog post - Why Smaller Kitchen Scraps Mean Speedier Decomposition

Greens and browns (without the nonsense)

You'll see lots of ratios online. In real life, the best approach is: balance based on how it looks and smells.

If you want a simple reference, here's my guide: Balancing your green and brown waste in your compost

Greens (nitrogen-rich)

  • fruit and veg scraps
  • coffee grounds and tea leaves
  • grass clippings
  • fresh plant trimmings
  • flowers
  • manure

Browns (carbon-rich)

  • torn cardboard
  • shredded paper
  • dead leaves
  • straw or hay
  • small twigs and woody bits
  • a sprinkle of wood ash
  • crushed eggshells

My favourite trick: keep a "browns stash"

Store a bag or box of dry browns next to your composter (shredded cardboard/paper is perfect). Then every time you add a caddy of food waste, you can balance it immediately.

It's the single best habit for avoiding sogginess and smells.

Choosing your hot composting setup

You can hot compost in two main ways.

Option A: A hot compost heap (fast, but you turn it)

A heap can get very hot if it's:

  • big enough,
  • well mixed,
  • and turned (mixed) to add oxygen.

Turning is the primary "tool" with a heap. If the temperature drops, a good turn often perks it up.

Best for: bigger gardens, lots of garden waste, people happy to turn.

Option B: An insulated hot composter (fast, tidy, great for food waste)

Insulated composters are designed to retain heat and maintain ideal conditions. Different models do this in various ways, but the goal is the same: warm, airy, damp compost.

Best for: smaller gardens, year‑round composting, lots of kitchen waste, and anyone who wants a neat system.

If you want to browse what's available, here are the hot composters I stock: Hot composters in the shop

Meet the UK's best hot composters: Aerobin, Green Johanna and HOTBIN.

If you'd rather use a purpose-built bin that keeps heat in and makes the process easier, these three are some of the most popular "proper" hot composters in the UK.

They all aim for the same thing—warm, airy, damp compost—but they get there in slightly different ways.

HOTBIN (Mini, MK2, and Mega)

HOTBIN is a fully insulated, self-contained hot composter designed to run at hot‑composting temperatures using the heat created by aerobic bacteria—no power needed.

Why do people choose it

  • Designed for fast breakdown when it's running hot.
  • An enclosed design helps keep things tidy, reducing smells and flies.
  • Great for people who want to compost more food waste (with good browns and good airflow).

Popular options (with links)

Top tip: feed little and often (every 2–3 days) and keep a stash of shredded cardboard/paper next to the bin to balance moisture as you go.

Want more detail? The HOTBIN hot composter.

Useful Links:

Product Video:

Aerobin (200 / 400 / 600)

Aerobin is designed to be low effort. It uses an internal aeration lung to keep air moving through the centre of the composting mass, so there's little need to turn (though an occasional mix never hurts).

Why do people choose it

  • Designed to stay aerobic with minimal fuss.
  • Insulated for year‑round composting.
  • Includes a base and leachate collection, so you can collect the liquid and dilute it before use.

Shop the Aerobin sizes

Want the full Aerobin explainer? Aerobin composting.

Green Johanna (330L)

Green Johanna is a roomy hot composter designed to compost food waste and garden waste together in a ventilated, aerobic environment.

Why do people choose it

  • Big capacity (330L) without taking over the garden.
  • Designed to handle mixed household waste, including cooked food (with a good balance).
  • It can be boosted in winter with an insulating jacket.

Product links

Want more detail? The Green Johanna 330L hot composter

How to get a compost heap hot (step-by-step)

If you're building a heap, your goal is volume, airflow, and dampness.

  1. Pick a spot with decent drainage and easy access.
  2. Build enough volume. Tiny piles lose heat quickly.
  3. Mix greens and browns from the start. Avoid dumping grass in a thick layer.
  4. Add structure. Woody bits and bulky browns help keep air gaps.
  5. Moisten as you build so it's damp, not dripping.
  6. Turn it weekly, or whenever it cools and slows.

Feeding strategy: heaps work best in "batch mode" (build a decent pile, let it cook), rather than tiny daily additions.

How to run a hot composter (the easy rhythm)

Hot composters shine when you get into a simple routine.

1) Start right

Don't start with food waste alone. Include browns and something bulky to allow air to move through the mix.

2) Feed + balance (every few days or weekly)

  • Add your kitchen caddy and/or garden waste
  • Add a handful (or two) of browns at the same time
  • If your system uses a bulking agent (like wood chip), use it consistently

3) Keep it closed and tidy

A properly closed lid helps:

  • keep heat in
  • keep smells down
  • discourage pests

Wipe the rim occasionally so the lid seals properly.

4) If it cools down, don't panic

Cooling happens. Usually, the fix is one of these:

  • Too wet? Add more shredded cardboard/paper, and bulky browns,
  • Not enough air? Stir/aerate and add something chunky,
  • Not enough feed? Add a balanced load of greens + browns.

Make one change, then recheck after a day or two.

A simple "recipe" that works for most households

If you want a no-faff approach, try this:

  • Every time you add a caddy of food waste, add:
    • a good handful of shredded cardboard/paper
    • plus a handful of chunky browns (dry leaves, small twigs, wood chips)

Then adjust based on feel:

  • If it looks wet/heavy → add more paper/card and bulky browns
  • If it looks dry → add more greens (or a splash of water if it's very dry)

What can you hot compost?

This depends on your method and your setup.

If you want a simple, "it depends" answer for different composting methods, use: What can I compost?

In a standard garden heap/bin

It's usually best to avoid large amounts of:

  • meat
  • fish
  • dairy
  • fats/oils

These can smell and attract pests.

In a true hot composter

Some hot composters are designed to handle a wider range of food waste (even cooked food). Still, moderation and good balance matter.

Tip: whatever you compost, always bury fresh food waste inside the mix and add browns on top.

Paper and cardboard

Shredded paper and torn cardboard are brilliant browns. Avoid glossy magazines and heavily coated card.

Troubleshooting: quick fixes for common problems

"My compost isn't heating up"

Most common causes:

  • not enough material (too small)
  • not enough greens (too many dry browns)
  • not enough air (compacted/wet)

Fix: add a balanced load, add chunky browns for airflow, and keep the lid closed.

"It's wet and smells bad"

That usually means the mix has gone short on oxygen.

Fix: add shredded cardboard/paper and chunky browns. Stir/aerate if you can.

"It smells of ammonia"

Usually, there are too many greens.

Fix: add more browns (cardboard, paper, leaves, straw).

"I've got flies"

Often caused by exposed food waste.

Fix: Bury food waste inside the mix and cover with browns. Keep the lid shut.

If this is a recurring pain, this one might help: Eradicate fruit flies in compost.

"I'm worried about rodents"

Neatness and balance help.

  • Keep lids/hatches properly closed
  • Don't leave scraps around the edges
  • Avoid adding tempting items to a basic open heap

When is compost ready?

Finished compost is usually:

  • dark brown
  • crumbly
  • smells earthy
  • has very few recognisable scraps

If it's still warm and active, it may simply need more time (or a short "rest" period) before use.

How to use your compost

A few simple wins:

  • Mulch: spread around established plants (not touching stems)
  • Soil improver: dig into beds before planting
  • Potting mix: blend with garden soil (avoid using 100% compost for most pots)

FAQs

How hot is hot composting?

Many hot systems aim for a core temperature of roughly 40–60 °C.

How fast can I get compost?

In good conditions, hot composting can produce compost in 30–90 days. Weather, feeding patterns and the mix all make a difference.

Do I have to turn it?

  • heaps: usually yes, turning adds oxygen and boosts heat
  • insulated hot composters: often less turning is needed (depending on design)

Do I need compost accelerators?

Usually not. A good balance of greens, browns, air and moisture is what really makes the difference.

Want help choosing a setup?

If you tell me:

  • Roughly how much food waste do you produce each week?
  • How much garden waste do you have in summer?
  • and whether you want a hands-off or hands-on approach,

I can point you to the most suitable hot composting route.

Adam

I'm Adam, the founder of Compost Guy. I'm passionate about empowering people to embrace composting! Whether you're a seasoned composter or just starting your journey, I'm here to help.